How did you find your KZ1000?

WGCARBS.com

SIRIUSCONINC.com

z1enterprises.com

[brettbolt]

Here is a LTD seat.

If thats an 82 LTD in the photo then I guess I'm missing the tail section and chain guard.

[RoyBean]

I can't find a picture. Check this site out for all your Kz info.

The bike in the photo is a 1980. Roy

http://zedder.com/Info/82%20KZ1000-K2%20LTD.htm

[RoyBean]

There is a lot of diffrence between those two bikes. Yours has the "J" engine.

The brake system is diffrent. A whole lot of diffrence.

That bike has the frame that kawasaki raced in the stock trim with no extra added support.

Should be a solid bike.  Here is one on ebay. Roy


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-Kawasaki-KZ1000-LTD_W0QQitemZ300366543782QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_motorcycles?hash=item45ef3dbba6


And there are some parts too.


http://motors.shop.ebay.com/topgaskz/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

[brettbolt]

Thanks for all the info Roy.

Tonight I finally have a chance to diagnose the wiring issues in my KZ1000. I expect to have it on the road soon, and then I'll have to sell a few of the others to make space in my garage.

[brettbolt]

I inspected the wiring tonight. Two of the yellow wires coming from the alternator have bare exposed terminals that may have been contacting the frame (ground) or each other. That is not good. Also, the alternator wire connectors were very dirty and oily -- possibly not making electrical contact. The resistances across each combination of the yellow alternator wires is good -- about 1/2 ohm across each of the 3 pairs. I think all it needs are some new connectors  and it should be good to go.

As for the starter relay -- it tested fine. The seller apparently forgot about the starter lockout switch in the clutch  lever assembly. With the clutch lever depressed the bike turns over just fine -- no need to bypass the solenoid with a screwdriver. But I can see how he got confused -- on most of the older bike that I've seen, the previous owners have already bypassed the starter lockout so they don't have to hold the clutch in when starting.

Will also need to inspect the carbs. The choke sticks. Additionally the seller said that he had experimented with the float levels. That means they're probably messed up. I'll check and adjust them using the clear tube method.

I hope to be riding this bike soon!

Brett  

[brettbolt]

Today I got the engine running and discovered that its not charging the battery. But the good news is that I was able to go for a short ride before the battery ran out, and the engine is very strong, all the gears work, and the clutch is fine!

Initially I thought that the stator was OK, but I tested it again. Although the resistance between each yellow wire pair is still 1/2 ohm, the resistance to ground is 0. Apparently the stator wiring is touching the metal case somewhere. Time to buy a new stator.

And I tested the diodes in the rectifier/regulator. The resistance across each yellow wire pair in both directions is infinite (open circuit on all 6 tests). So I guess the diodes are fried.

The regulator/rectifier looks relatively new. So I'm thinking that a previous owner replaced it and the bad stator may have burnt  out the diodes in the rectifier.

My shopping list for restoration has now grown to the following items:
1) Regulator/Rectifier
2) Stator
3) Correct fitting seat
4) Left turn signal
5) Passenger grab rail
6) Airbox cover lid
7) Speedometer case cover (backside)
8 ) Chain guard
9) 'Kawasaki' name badge for front fork
10) Rear brake light lens
11) Front brake lever

[RoyBean]

As long as the engine/transmission is good you done alright. Roy

[wiredgeorge]

The stator wires generally wear OUTSIDE the stator and can be cut off and replaced. To measure the effectiveness of the stator, use a multimeter and measure AC. At about 3500 rpm you should see a bit of 50VAC if you put the probes on two of the three yellow wires. Test each possible way. If you have the correct AC, then just clean up the wiring by draining the oil out of the stator and clipping the wires on the inside of the rubber block they run through. I suggest you get another rubber block and run new wire through and solder the leads from the stator wires to the new wires and shrink wrap. I would also use some sort of sheathing on the new wires as they tend to fray as they run up to the reg/rec. If you have decent AC then measure the charging voltage (DC this time) at the battery. 12VDC at idle is about right and 14.5 VDC at about 4K rpm is what is needed to keep the battery charged. Also consider one of the most common reasons a battery doesn't charge is that the plates are sulfated. It is common for folks to use a too-high charger and charge to fast initially and it is easy to ruin the battery. The battery CAN hold a bit of a charge for awhile but isn't very effective. If the battery is discharging it MAY be the battery. You can pick up a very inexpensive hydrometer which looks like an eyedropper. You draw in battery fluid for each one of the cells and there are small balls in the dropper. They float or don't float. The packaging will say that if some don't float the cell isn't in A1 shape but if any balls fail to float the cell is sulfated and you need a new battery. Folks also top off batteries with tap water and this sulfates the cells.

[brettbolt]

I took the stator out of the alternator case and all three yellow wires have a short to the center metal ring. Also, I can see that the coating has cracked off in various places in the windings. Its shot.

A replacement stator, rectifier/regulator and several other parts are on order. Now I have to wait.  

[branumhawk]

An outfit sells stators on ebay rebuilt for around 125,  But a guy I talked with on a Honda forum when I was doing my 85 Honda vt700 gave me the name of the company that sells it to them.  I called the number and he asked where I had been referred from and told him how I came about  his number.  His price for a rebuilt stator with above stock specs was 90 dollars and it is the cheapest I have found for stators.  I will dig  around and see if I can find it Brett.  I will let you know soon.  Looks like a good deal.  Getting it even running that quick is a good sign, most of the ones I get have varnished up frozen linkages, clogged fuel passages and petcocks frozen and clogged up.

branumhawk

[branumhawk]

Brett,

The outfit is called custom rewind.  Find them on the net and call the guy.  They dont show prices, tell him you found the site on a honda shadow forum.  They rebuild stators, heavier wire, buy cores.  I got one for 95 bucks and it worked great.  He is the one who sells them to Ricks Stators.   Cheapest source I have found. Good luck.

branumhawk

[brettbolt]

... Getting it even running that quick is a good sign, most of the ones I get have varnished up frozen linkages, clogged fuel passages and petcocks frozen and clogged up.

It runs, but is very difficult to start. I have to use starting fluid. I plan on disassembling and cleaning the carbs tomorrow.

Brett,

The outfit is called custom rewind.  Find them on the net and call the guy.  They dont show prices, tell him you found the site on a honda shadow forum.  They rebuild stators, heavier wire, buy cores.  I got one for 95 bucks and it worked great.  He is the one who sells them to Ricks Stators.   Cheapest source I have found. Good luck.

branumhawk

Thanks for the tip about customrewind.com . I'm having second thoughts about the used stator that I bought on eBay (too late to cancel). It includes a good stator case, which I also need. But the seller shipped it Parcel Post from the east coast, which could take 2 weeks. Ouch.

Maybe I'll see if I can get a rebuilt stator before December.

[RoyBean]

Brentbolt, Why don't you start a new topic in new projects and include a lot of pictures?

We like pictures!! 

[chance]

Yeah Brett..Thats a good Idea..

[branumhawk]

Brett,

Looks a lot my bike probabllydid.  Seat looks idntentical to my 82 CSR.  I had no tank or front end.  On those used stators if the coppery colored goo around all the windings is pretty much the same color without any burned off or really discolored areas, it should be fine.  Easier to put on in the case cover anyway.  Like George said 50 volts ac accross all possibe combination of the three yellow wiires, solder your connections up through to the regulator/rectifier bypassing those plug in connections.  Just did one on a Honda shadow 85 model so it should be similar.  I use tiny smears of red permatex gasket goop to hold the gasket in place, besides the pins. Check wiring diagrams to be be sure.  Getting 14 volts on the battery with bike running.

branumhawk