Prices listed below are for the assembly (not a single carb)

BENEFITS!

• Total disassembly of all components
• FULL internal/external cleaning; media blast, ultrasonic and manual
• Remove OEM paint ($80 - repaint upon request - not recommended)
• Replace choke plunger pads, if needed
• Most assemblies use bulk rebuild parts as needed
• Replace air cut off valves (if equipped)
• Rebuild accelerator pump (if equipped)
• Repairs made and parts replaced (if available) as needed
• Some assemblies require carb kits
• New and correct JIS fasteners
• Optional (free) stainless allen head bolts (some models)
• Perform any needed repairs - if the carburetor is received un-repairable and we have attempted to repair it, we are not responsible since the starting condition was such that no repair is possible; we do NOT offer refunds but will, of course, rebuild a similar assembly if the customer procures one.
• Repair small holes in rubber diaphragms new diaphragms EXTRA
• Refurbish fuel tees/pipes
• Set float levels
• Bench sync (see note on this page)
  
• Rejet if indicated by your bike's configuration

Paint Removal $80 (note 1)

Paint is removed when we clean.  All of it must come off and this is tedious and time consuming. We highly recommend you not request repainting.  Paint is not durable when it comes in contact with gasoline.

CUSTOMER DISASSEMBLED CARB ASSEMBLIES $80

Experience has shown that when a customer disassembles, it creates a storage issue for us as well as parts are generally missing.  The disassembly usually costs us extra hours of work during the rebuild. The only acceptable part to be removed from an assembly is the cable bracket if it is fragile and in danger of breaking during shipping.  All other parts should be where they belong.  

Special Note!  Z1, Z1A or Z1B carburetors that have missing parts will incur a charge for replacement of the parts and this will need to be assessed after getting the carburetors in our possession.  There is no guarantee we will have the parts on hand.  These parts are getting to hard to source.  Sorry.  

DO YOU HAVE AN ACCELERATOR PUMP?

Not sure if you have an accelerator pump?  Most of the pumps are on Mikuni carburetor assemblies used on VM22/24, VM26 and VM28 used on KZ650s, KZ1000s from 1978 through 1981.  Please have a look at this link if you are not sure:

ACCELERATOR PUMP GUIDE

We bench sync both mechanical slide carbs (such as VM series) and constant velocity carbs (such as CV, CVK, BS, etc)   The bench sync on mechanical slide carbs is pretty accurate.  Constant velocity carb assemblies are not as precise when bench sync-ing.  The reason is that we don't sync the slides but the throttle butterflies.  Once we have them all closed, we open the throttle butterflies with the idle screw and then try to get each throttle butterfly cracked the same amount but this is done by eye.  At idle the throttle butterflies are opened a very slight amount., For this reason, we recommend contstant velocity type carburetors be synchronized using vacuum gauges.  The bike will start and run but will be smoother after synchronizing with gauges.

The other tuning issue is the amount of fuel in the bowl.  We use float height specifications and have found that, floats may have been bent improperly by past mechanics.  Also we have noticed that some aftermarket float needles/seats are slightly different heights than OEM.  This means that minor adjustments to the floats to get the proper amount of fuel in the bowl be made once they are put into use.  This is a normal tuning procedure.  There are some carburetor assemblies that we can not set the fuel level or float height due their configuration such as the Yamaha V4 models such as V-Max, Venture or Royal Star.  The manual states: 1mm below the piston valve center and we don't have the equipment to do this.   We also do not attempt to set the fuel level or float level on carburetors where the engine is canted forward and the float bowl isn't parallel to the ground.  

Z1 VM28 and small displacement four cylinder CB models from the early to mid 70s all with external sync mechanisms often have sticky throttles after rebuilding.  To get the slides sliding when the throttle is opened, take off the tops and squirt some WD40 in each slide.  This will free them up and once the bike is used a bit, the stickiness will not recur.  The sticking is caused by dry slides and slide bores.

Carburetors using brass floats should have the bowls removed after the first use to check to ensure the floats are not picking up gas.  If the float is removed from the bowl and you shake the float, you will be able to hear and feel the gas in the bowl if it has a slow leak.   These floats need to be either repaired by soldering or replaced.  It is hard for us to find bad brass floats since we don't have them immersed in gas for long periods.  Rubber dust covers on some older assemblies are not included in the rebuild price and if available, we can give you a quote on new rubber dust covers.  These rubber dust covers often deteriorate with age and can't be removed without damaging them.

This is part of the tuning process.  Thanks- wg

  Yamaha 

   Honda
We DO NOT rebuild Goldwing or V4 carburetor assemblies. Visit Mike Nixon's website for very professional rebuild service for those assemblies.  See our LINKS tab for his website.

  Suzuki

  Kawaski

Mikuni Smoothbore VM29/VM33 (any model)..................$419
Note: We DO repair stripped jet blocks as part of any rebuild.  If brass floats are bad, the cost for new floats is $35 each and other parts that need to be replaced (other than normal rebuild parts) will be charged on a per unit basis as we must buy most of these rather than replace from our used parts cache.   Jet block and slide replacement are extra and if you need to replace a single carb body, it will cost $125 in addition to the rebuild cost.   We sometimes have them available for replacments.